Puerto Peñasco: crossing the border to 'Arizona's beach'

The thought of it made me nervous for days, having to drive across the American-Mexican border by car. So many people had told us never to do that. Well, never anywhere else, not besides the crossing to Rocky Point, also known as 'Arizona's beach'. Craving the cool(er) ocean breeze, we couldn't resist giving it a try. I was expecting guns and gangs, Mexican bandits with tears tattooed under their eyes, people trying to get in our car on the way back, and packs of stray dogs. Thankfully, it was nothing like that. Not even close.

I can't say their weren't any guns, though, as the American side seemed to be heavily guarded. Not on the border, but the desert beyond it. When we were about ten miles away from the crossing, a black helicopter suddenly appeared hovering over the highway so close we could almost touch it, like a scene from the average American war movie. It made us rethink our vacation destination for a split second. But several checkpoints later, where we as white blond people going to Mexico were completely ignored, we drove into the much talked about land on the other side. And that is the complete opposite of going North. Absolutely nobody was looking at us, just two female 'border officials' interrupting their animated morning chat to ask us where we are going. Like we would have the guts to take a road trip. There was no one asking for a passport, no one checking our car.

And beyond it the desert continues, although it looked more rugged, empty, and poor. The main road to Rocky Point, which is just an hour away, is fine. It has some weird speed limit tourist traps that others had already warned us about, but the only cars you see are American. As we neared Rocky Point we felt more like being in South America. It is just 60 miles from the American border but as soon as you get away from the ugly resorts the pavement literally ends, houses are built from garbage, and there are kids begging for money at the local store.

It gives you a better understanding of why they are so desperate to cross the border, to have dreams of a better life. Every American should cross that border at least once in their life, and then judge the whole border situation.

It does make vacationing in Puerto Peñasco a little weird, though, knowing that you are allowed back in, and they are not. We don't have to survive, but are just enjoying their beaches and their food, always looking over our shoulder, wary of parking our car on the street. Scared that they will rob us from the little piece of fortune we brought from the States. Nothing happened, of course. And even though we felt a little bit awkward with the situation, they are just happy with our money. Tourism is the main source of (legal) income in Rocky Point.

And is Rocky Point a good holiday destination? Nah. The beach at Las Conchas was beautiful and I really enjoyed it, but the town itself and the resorts are ugly, without character, and definitely not authentic. The fact that it is so focussed on Americans makes you forget you are abroad, everybody speaks English and sells hamburgers and 'booze' (Coors light is not beer). A shame...

But our hotel was in a 'residential development' area with private beach access, away from the resorts and the bars. A nice place to relax and really enjoy the ocean. We even spotted dolphins and a fin whale from our little patio!

Two days later we drove back to the States. We'd heard horror stories about hours of waiting, but it was a Tuesday morning and we were the only ones at the crossing. Again we had no problems at all, not even an 'open your trunk please'. At the other checkpoint (in Arizona!) we were asked if we were American citizens. The border patrol agent looked at us and wasn't even really listening to the answer, probable already assessed it just had to be a yes. But when we said no and had our passports ready he was genuinely surprised. "Europeans, huh? Nice! Eeh, what kind of Visa is this?" (He didn't even know....how can you be working at border patrol and not know??) When we explained we were here on a NATO visa, working for a foreign military he just said "O Cool! Drive safe".

The car in front of us got checked. When we drove passed them I saw the woman looked Mexican. Typical...